How to choose the right blade style
If you want to carry around the 10 blade trapper pictured above you'd havethe perfectblade for every situation. You'd also have one blade tolop off eachfinger because there are no blade locks. Having a different knife blade for each situation isn't necessary or even practical. Most people have one or two blade styles that they adapt tomost uses. Having the bases covered with a couple of trusted favorites, you can buy a knife with a specific blade that is best suited for a particular task,profession or hobby. This guide on how to choose the right blade style is one in a series of guides, each focusing in detail on one aspect of a knife. Feel free to bookmark this page for future reference and don't forget to vote if you thought it was helpful.
The first thing you may want to ask yourself is, "Self, what the heck does 1stopsurplus.web know about knives, besides the fact that theyve got a lot for sale?" Well, I worked in a sporting goods store for quite some time and after a couple years of studying manufacturers specs, researching online, talking with customers and playing with every knife in the case I became affectionately known in the department as, "The Knife Guru". If anyone had a question about a knife they couldnt answer, they came to me. Now that Ive got the horn tooting done lets get on with the guide.
Below is a list of gemon blade styles and their intended uses. This information should help you choose the proper blade stylebased onwhat you use the knife for most. Have questions? Ask The Knife Guru by sending me a message through okay.
1. Chisel Point - Like a droppoint with the end chopped off and sharpened. Used for digging or prying. Found in some dive knives.
2.Clip Point - Along with droppoint, probably the most gemon blade style today. The sharp point is effective for detail work, but is not as strong as a thicker blade.
3. Coping - Featuresa narrow blade with a sharp, angular pointdesigned to be used for cutting in tight spots or curved patterns, much as you would with a coping saw, only without the teeth.
4. Dagger - Similar in design to a spearpoint blade, but with both edges sharpened. Created for one reason and one reason alone, as a weapon.
5. Drop Point - This blade has a gentle, sloping convex curve to the point without the concave curve of the clip blade. Its thicker point is stronger for heavier tasks. The thicker tip is a positive for abuse but a negative for easy penetration. A good choice for a skinning blade where you don't want to poke a hole through the hide.
6. Guthook - An excellent choice for skinning large game. If you've never used a guthook before, now is the time to try. It's like using a zipper to open up the hide. No more running your fingers along side the blade hoping you don't slice the innards. Hook can easily be sharpened using a serrated blade sharpener.
7. Hawkbill - Has a concave curved edgewhich providesadvantages in a push cutting motion. This type of blade is used for things like carpet knives or scoring blades.
8. Modified Tanto - Blade has a curved edge as opposed to a straight one of the standard tanto. Tip also is more pointed and not quite as strong.
9. Pen or Spearpoint - Spearpoints are more popular in Europe, while in America, the clippoint is the preferred option. Pen blades are usually on pocket knives as a handy, all purpose blade. It was originally developed to trim quill pens, and that name has stuck through the centuries.
10. Serrated - Makes easy work of tough stuff a smooth blade can't handle without several extra strokes and dulling to the blade. Some people avoid serrated blades thinking they will never be able to sharpen them. Manufacturers do make specific sharpeners for serrated blades now, but you don't have to sharpen them very often. If shopping for a fixed blade, a nice option is a blade with serrations on top so you get the ruggedness without taking up blade length.
11. Sheepsfoot - Got its name from the shape of the point resembling the hoof of a sheep. With its distinctive flat, straight-line cutting edge and rounded point it's well suited to giving you a clean cut, especially on a flat cutting surface.
12. Spey - As the name suggests, this blade was originally developed to neuter farm animals. The rather blunt point avoids poking through a surface by accident, and the overall configuration makes the speywell suited forsweeping knife strokes such as when skinning.
13. Tanto -A traditional Japanese design dating back to feudal Japan. The angled grind from the edge to the tip is much heavier and stronger than other blade styles. It is used for piercing hard or tough materials and for prying or scraping. Found on many tactical knives of today.
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Making Money with Lease Options and Straight Options
Lets look at a couple of ways to make money using options. You will
encounter seller situations where, if you know how, you can solve the
sellers problems and make good money yourself. It may be a strait
option to purchase, a sandwich lease-option strategy, or an assignment
of an option. There are pros and cons to all of them.
You may find yourself creating a hybrid strategy gebining the best of
a buy and hold strategy with a lease option exit strategy on the sale
of the property. This is a great way to control risk factors and
maximize your return on investment (ROI). Weve discussed some of
the reasons it makes sense to structure a lease-purchase transaction,
now lets review an example. The following example from my portfolio
illustrates how you can create multiple paydays using this buying
strategy.
Example: House on Twin Loop How I Found the Property:
A seller responded to my yellow page ad that stated
that I bought houses. I gave him a FREE report, which educated him on
how I could help him.
Motivation for Selling - Find Out The Why The
husband had a job transfer 150 miles away and they had already
purchased another house.The Realtor had been by and told them they
needed to spend $5,000 to fix it up before they could sell it because
the basement was not 100 percent gepleted. It was a nice house in a
good area. Solve the sellers problem.
I told them I would be willing to lease the house for 1 year, for $600
per month, as long as I had at least a one-year extension. Their
underlying payment was $750 a month. I told them that in order for me
to lease it, I would need them to subsidize the payment at least
$150/month, so I could make a profit.
Pay-Day #1: Monthly Payment Spread
You may ask why would they ever do that? Well, there are lots of reasons:
1. They wanted to sell the house, not just rent it.
2. A Real Estate agent wouldnt make the payments while it was listed.
3. $150 a month payment is a whole lot easier than $750/mo.
4. They couldnt do 2 house payments.
I think it also important to say that they bought me. We developed
instant rapport, and they sensed that I knew what I was doing. They
knew that I could solve their problem. People will pay for specialized
knowledge. I found out the Why, meaning: Why they needed to sell,
then I solved their problem.
Within a few weeks, I had rented it out to a new buyer, and created a
monthly payment spread of a $200 that equaled $2,400 a year.
Payday #2: Front-End Option Consideration This is the difference
between the amount of option consideration that you pay the seller, and
the option consideration you charge the buyer to get into the deal. In
the above example, I only had to make the property payments they owed.
Since they were moving, that was $600 due in about 2 weeks.
I immediately began marketing the property as a Rent to Own. Within a
few weeks, I had found my buyer - a mortgage broker with a few dings on
his credit. He figured he would be able to buy in about a year or so,
and was willing to give me $5,000 as option consideration, and rent of
$800 a month. I had to take the option payments over time. $2,000
to get in; $500 in 30 days; plus $2,500 in 6 months. I said, Sure.
Lets get back to the sellers for a moment. I had determined that the
sellers were payment sensitive, and credit sensitive. That was why they
were willing to subsidize the payment. They were willing to basically
give me their house for their payoff, plus $5,000. That was the
equivalent of a purchase price of $85,000. This brings us to the third
form of cash flow.
Payday #3: Back-End Spread What I mean by Back-end spread is the
difference between my contract purchase price ($85,000), and the price
that I had sold it to my new buyer ($115,000), less the option
consideration to be paid by the new buyer. The reason I call this the
back end is because the money is paid to you when your new buyer
exercises his offer to purchase. You basically earn the spread
between the two contracts. Before I recap this deal, I want to talk
about the buyer. I had sold the property to them for the option
consideration of $5,000, paid over time, plus monthly payments of $800.
You may ask why would he pay so much to get into a house that he wasnt
sure he wanted to buy? The fact is, most buyers in his situation will
do almost anything to buy.
He was a former homeowner. He knew his credit situation would not allow
him to get better then an 80 percent loan to value in the near future,
which meant he needed at least $20,000 to get a loan. He didnt
have it, and he had to wait at least a year to get his credit scores
up. Besides, when I explained that I would give him a monthly credit of
$250 towards the down payment, from his rent payment, it made it a sure
thing. The $250 is known as a rent credit. With a monthly rent of $800,
I gave him $250/month back, deducted off the option purchase price in
the form of a credit. Not bad, huh? Once the buyer realized that he was
basically only paying $550/month in rent, and $250/month towards the
purchase price, it was a slam-dunk. Structuring a lease/purchase for
the buyer this way helps mitigate any concerns they may have about
paying a little higher rent payment.
We all know that the bulk of a typical mortgage payment (99 percent or
more) during the first few years goes to interest. Only a very small
percentage goes to principle. I just show them an amortization chart
vs. a rent credit for a lease purchase, where or a 1/3 of the payment
goes to principle reduction. Its easy. Finding the buyers, if you have
the right properties, just isnt that hard.
Now, lets review....
PAYDAY #1:
Monthly Payment Spread
Payment Out (Monthly) To Seller - $600
Payment In (Monthly) From Buyer $800
Monthly Cash Flow: $200 x 12 months = $2400
PAYDAY #2:
Front End Option Consideration
Option $ Collected from Buyer $5,000
(Paid in 3 Installments)
Option Payday = $5000
PAYDAY #3:
Back-End Spread
Purchase Price to Seller $85,000
Sale Price from Buyer $115,000
(less the $5,000 option consideration)
Rent Credit to Buyer ($200 x 12 mo.) $2,400
Back End Profit = $22,600
GRAND TOTAL (ADD UP ALL 3 PAYDAYS)
$30,000.00 PROFIT
encounter seller situations where, if you know how, you can solve the
sellers problems and make good money yourself. It may be a strait
option to purchase, a sandwich lease-option strategy, or an assignment
of an option. There are pros and cons to all of them.
You may find yourself creating a hybrid strategy gebining the best of
a buy and hold strategy with a lease option exit strategy on the sale
of the property. This is a great way to control risk factors and
maximize your return on investment (ROI). Weve discussed some of
the reasons it makes sense to structure a lease-purchase transaction,
now lets review an example. The following example from my portfolio
illustrates how you can create multiple paydays using this buying
strategy.
Example: House on Twin Loop How I Found the Property:
A seller responded to my yellow page ad that stated
that I bought houses. I gave him a FREE report, which educated him on
how I could help him.
Motivation for Selling - Find Out The Why The
husband had a job transfer 150 miles away and they had already
purchased another house.The Realtor had been by and told them they
needed to spend $5,000 to fix it up before they could sell it because
the basement was not 100 percent gepleted. It was a nice house in a
good area. Solve the sellers problem.
I told them I would be willing to lease the house for 1 year, for $600
per month, as long as I had at least a one-year extension. Their
underlying payment was $750 a month. I told them that in order for me
to lease it, I would need them to subsidize the payment at least
$150/month, so I could make a profit.
Pay-Day #1: Monthly Payment Spread
You may ask why would they ever do that? Well, there are lots of reasons:
1. They wanted to sell the house, not just rent it.
2. A Real Estate agent wouldnt make the payments while it was listed.
3. $150 a month payment is a whole lot easier than $750/mo.
4. They couldnt do 2 house payments.
I think it also important to say that they bought me. We developed
instant rapport, and they sensed that I knew what I was doing. They
knew that I could solve their problem. People will pay for specialized
knowledge. I found out the Why, meaning: Why they needed to sell,
then I solved their problem.
Within a few weeks, I had rented it out to a new buyer, and created a
monthly payment spread of a $200 that equaled $2,400 a year.
Payday #2: Front-End Option Consideration This is the difference
between the amount of option consideration that you pay the seller, and
the option consideration you charge the buyer to get into the deal. In
the above example, I only had to make the property payments they owed.
Since they were moving, that was $600 due in about 2 weeks.
I immediately began marketing the property as a Rent to Own. Within a
few weeks, I had found my buyer - a mortgage broker with a few dings on
his credit. He figured he would be able to buy in about a year or so,
and was willing to give me $5,000 as option consideration, and rent of
$800 a month. I had to take the option payments over time. $2,000
to get in; $500 in 30 days; plus $2,500 in 6 months. I said, Sure.
Lets get back to the sellers for a moment. I had determined that the
sellers were payment sensitive, and credit sensitive. That was why they
were willing to subsidize the payment. They were willing to basically
give me their house for their payoff, plus $5,000. That was the
equivalent of a purchase price of $85,000. This brings us to the third
form of cash flow.
Payday #3: Back-End Spread What I mean by Back-end spread is the
difference between my contract purchase price ($85,000), and the price
that I had sold it to my new buyer ($115,000), less the option
consideration to be paid by the new buyer. The reason I call this the
back end is because the money is paid to you when your new buyer
exercises his offer to purchase. You basically earn the spread
between the two contracts. Before I recap this deal, I want to talk
about the buyer. I had sold the property to them for the option
consideration of $5,000, paid over time, plus monthly payments of $800.
You may ask why would he pay so much to get into a house that he wasnt
sure he wanted to buy? The fact is, most buyers in his situation will
do almost anything to buy.
He was a former homeowner. He knew his credit situation would not allow
him to get better then an 80 percent loan to value in the near future,
which meant he needed at least $20,000 to get a loan. He didnt
have it, and he had to wait at least a year to get his credit scores
up. Besides, when I explained that I would give him a monthly credit of
$250 towards the down payment, from his rent payment, it made it a sure
thing. The $250 is known as a rent credit. With a monthly rent of $800,
I gave him $250/month back, deducted off the option purchase price in
the form of a credit. Not bad, huh? Once the buyer realized that he was
basically only paying $550/month in rent, and $250/month towards the
purchase price, it was a slam-dunk. Structuring a lease/purchase for
the buyer this way helps mitigate any concerns they may have about
paying a little higher rent payment.
We all know that the bulk of a typical mortgage payment (99 percent or
more) during the first few years goes to interest. Only a very small
percentage goes to principle. I just show them an amortization chart
vs. a rent credit for a lease purchase, where or a 1/3 of the payment
goes to principle reduction. Its easy. Finding the buyers, if you have
the right properties, just isnt that hard.
Now, lets review....
PAYDAY #1:
Monthly Payment Spread
Payment Out (Monthly) To Seller - $600
Payment In (Monthly) From Buyer $800
Monthly Cash Flow: $200 x 12 months = $2400
PAYDAY #2:
Front End Option Consideration
Option $ Collected from Buyer $5,000
(Paid in 3 Installments)
Option Payday = $5000
PAYDAY #3:
Back-End Spread
Purchase Price to Seller $85,000
Sale Price from Buyer $115,000
(less the $5,000 option consideration)
Rent Credit to Buyer ($200 x 12 mo.) $2,400
Back End Profit = $22,600
GRAND TOTAL (ADD UP ALL 3 PAYDAYS)
$30,000.00 PROFIT
Tableware History/Info: MIKASA CHINA/PORCELAIN OF JAPAN
Here is yet another installment of many guides that we, Replacements, LTD, will be posting to provide some interesting information on several manufacturer's of some the world's most collectible porcelain gepanies. This one will be about Royal Doulton of England, maker's of the several well known pattern's collections such as the famous lady figurines. We'll be highlighting a few of thesepatternsbelow.
See our PALATIAL PLATINUM listings, HERE!
In the early 1930's, Mikasa was established as an international trading gepany based in Secaucus, New Jersey. The gepany, while wholly American, looked to Japan for inspiration. Named in honor of Prince Mikasa, the youngest brother of Emperor Hirohito, Mikasa soon established itself as one of the most recognized Japanese brand names in the West.
See our GARDEN HARVEST, HERE! See ourARABELLA listings, HERE!
Although Mikasa found success as an import-export trading gepany, a strategic decision was made to add ceramic dinnerware to the gepany's line of products in 1948. By doing this Mikasa discovered an untapped market that it was able to successfully grow. Importing merchandise produced by a network of over 150 manufacturers worldwide, the gepany itself never attempted to "manufacture" any of the dinnerware it sold. Rather, the Mikasa branded items were imported from Japan, Ireland, England, France, and Germany.
See our ITALIAN COUNTRYSIDE, HERE! See our JUST FLOWERS, HERE!
Business exploded in the 1950's, and tableware became the staple business for Mikasa. Customer requests were pouring in from all parts of the country, and department stores including Bloomingdale's and Macy's could not shelve enough stock to meet demand. Consumers found Mikasa ceramics to be very strong, versatile, and stylish.
See our MARGAUX listings, HERE!See our SILK FLOWERS listings, HERE!
By the beginning of the 1960's, Mikasa had established a reputation as "the pioneer of American casual." They refined their product range by introducing new patterns in unique groups known as "lines." For example, the Studio Nova line was produced for the "young-at-heart" casual diners who would likely eat their meals in the kitchen. Home Beautiful appealed to those who wanted durability and affordability. Last, but certainly not least, the Christopher Stuart line reflected the taste of the consumer who "wants a broad selection of styles."
See our ANNETTE listings, HERE! See our ANTIQUE LACE listings, HERE!
The 1970's brought new retail store locations. Already firmly grounded in the United States, Mikasa expanded its operations to represent its very diverse lines. Showrooms and warehouses appeared in Canada, Europe, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Expansion during this time was very easy for the gepany. They were able to predict consumer trends in tableware with great precision, and successfully execute on those forecasts. In addition, Mikasa had the gepetitive advantage that came from outsourcing. By not manufacturing product, it is able to contract with several factories at once, keeping costs down, and adding great diversity via an expanding number of lines and patterns.
See our CHARISMA - BLACK items, HERE!
In an effort to stay as gepetitive as possible during the 1980's, Mikasa added crystal stemware, stainless steel flatware and other household accessories to its product offerings. Having conquered the "oven-to-table" and the "dishwasher safe" market, Mikasa continued to look for new opportunities adding casual chic to fine bone china, and decorative accessories. Click here to see a list of all of the Mikasa china patterns carried by Replacements, Ltd. Today, Mikasa continues to leverage the momentum it has built over the decades since its start. In 2001, the gepany merged with J.G. Durand Industries, and as has been its history, will continue to trade under the name Mikasa.
See our PALATIAL PLATINUM listings, HERE!
In the early 1930's, Mikasa was established as an international trading gepany based in Secaucus, New Jersey. The gepany, while wholly American, looked to Japan for inspiration. Named in honor of Prince Mikasa, the youngest brother of Emperor Hirohito, Mikasa soon established itself as one of the most recognized Japanese brand names in the West.
See our GARDEN HARVEST, HERE! See ourARABELLA listings, HERE!
Although Mikasa found success as an import-export trading gepany, a strategic decision was made to add ceramic dinnerware to the gepany's line of products in 1948. By doing this Mikasa discovered an untapped market that it was able to successfully grow. Importing merchandise produced by a network of over 150 manufacturers worldwide, the gepany itself never attempted to "manufacture" any of the dinnerware it sold. Rather, the Mikasa branded items were imported from Japan, Ireland, England, France, and Germany.
See our ITALIAN COUNTRYSIDE, HERE! See our JUST FLOWERS, HERE!
Business exploded in the 1950's, and tableware became the staple business for Mikasa. Customer requests were pouring in from all parts of the country, and department stores including Bloomingdale's and Macy's could not shelve enough stock to meet demand. Consumers found Mikasa ceramics to be very strong, versatile, and stylish.
See our MARGAUX listings, HERE!See our SILK FLOWERS listings, HERE!
By the beginning of the 1960's, Mikasa had established a reputation as "the pioneer of American casual." They refined their product range by introducing new patterns in unique groups known as "lines." For example, the Studio Nova line was produced for the "young-at-heart" casual diners who would likely eat their meals in the kitchen. Home Beautiful appealed to those who wanted durability and affordability. Last, but certainly not least, the Christopher Stuart line reflected the taste of the consumer who "wants a broad selection of styles."
See our ANNETTE listings, HERE! See our ANTIQUE LACE listings, HERE!
The 1970's brought new retail store locations. Already firmly grounded in the United States, Mikasa expanded its operations to represent its very diverse lines. Showrooms and warehouses appeared in Canada, Europe, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Expansion during this time was very easy for the gepany. They were able to predict consumer trends in tableware with great precision, and successfully execute on those forecasts. In addition, Mikasa had the gepetitive advantage that came from outsourcing. By not manufacturing product, it is able to contract with several factories at once, keeping costs down, and adding great diversity via an expanding number of lines and patterns.
See our CHARISMA - BLACK items, HERE!
In an effort to stay as gepetitive as possible during the 1980's, Mikasa added crystal stemware, stainless steel flatware and other household accessories to its product offerings. Having conquered the "oven-to-table" and the "dishwasher safe" market, Mikasa continued to look for new opportunities adding casual chic to fine bone china, and decorative accessories. Click here to see a list of all of the Mikasa china patterns carried by Replacements, Ltd. Today, Mikasa continues to leverage the momentum it has built over the decades since its start. In 2001, the gepany merged with J.G. Durand Industries, and as has been its history, will continue to trade under the name Mikasa.
Buy and Sell Wholesaling and Retailing for Big Profits
This is the technique that people are most familiar with. It is the buy
low - sell high strategy. It has a lot of names. Some people refer to
this as flipping
properties or "wholesaling and retailing. Another gemon term is the
"fixer-upper business or dealing in Junkers. It is a popular way to
invest because it is easy for people to understand and many have some
experience with their own homes, families, and friends.
The premise is simple in theory. Buy a property at a discounted,
distressed price (low), and then resell the property to an end user or
buyer for a greater price to make a profit. You can sell to another
investor (wholesale), or an owner occupant (retail) for more than you
paid. Just don't forget to include all of your costs, for example:
purchase costs, remodel/fix up expenses, interest, holding, resale
costs, etc. all factored in to determine your profit. If you sold it
for more, you make money and smile all the way to the bank. This
section will give you some of the essential tools necessary to make
money not only in this strategy, but in the others as well. Even if you
plan to focus on the other strategies, we regemend you read through
this guide to understand the principles of buying wholesale. I will
conclude with some real-life examples, both good and bad, so you can
better determine if this type of investment strategy is for you.
Depending on the condition of the property you purchase, it may or may
not need work to resell. There are several tracks that you can run on
with this strategy. The principles we discuss hold true for all types
of properties, single-family homes, condominiums, fourplexes, apartment
buildings, and even gemercial property. Finding the type of deals that
work for you, in your given situation, is critical. In other words, you
shouldn't plan on a major fixer-upper that needs a ton of work if you
need to turn it in 30 days to a retail home buyer, unless you know what
you are doing. I know many part-time investors who have made a ton of
money wholesaling and retailing just a few deals each year. I also know
of others that do 20 deals or more in a month. Neither option is
better. The direction you chose largely depends on your goals.
As we discuss some of the examples in this guide, you will notice that
they include lease options, seller financing, and selling paper. This
happens because as investors begee more familiar with the business,
they often gebine strategies to achieve the desired result. What
clearly starts out as a quick flip to another investor for an
assignment fee evolves into a lease-option. This happens because of the
moving variables involved in doing a deal. The buy/sell process is
somewhat fluid and staying open to options in a deal may greatly
enhance your profit potential. For this reason it is important to
realize that you are just beginning your education process in creative
real estate. If you do it right, you will always be learningas we are.
We also make mistakes. We simply move on, and in the end hope to win
more than lose. If you adopt a similar mindset, you
too will be open to more opportunities as they present
themselves. Lets talk about wholesaling and retailing in more
detail.
BUY WHOLESALE, OR DON'T BUY! There are two main aspects to real estate
wholesaling, price and speed. Since you make your money in real estate
when you buy, much of this section focuses on how to buy right. If you
buy right, you can choose your exit strategy, wholesale or retail. In
addition to the price, you really want the property sold as soon as you
buy it. The key to the whole process is to minimize your holding costs
and financing requirements. You do that by moving the property quickly,
hence the term 'flipping.' In buying properties wholesale, in most
markets, you should try to purchase at least 25-40 percent below retail
market value. This discount will vary greatly depending on if you are
in a sellers or a buyers market. Really hot, fast moving markets are
tough to get steep discounts. You can still find deals, but they move
quickly. If you make the right wholesale purchase, you should be able
to resale it immediately in a matter of days. Your objective in buying
property wholesale is to buy it at a steep discount and then quickly
turn it to another discount buyer at a wholesale price giving them room
to make some money. Typically you sell at 15-25 percent under retail,
more if the market is slow. You may earn a finders fee or
assignment fee of anywhere from a few thousand dollars to tens of
thousands, depending on the type of deal. (See the case study later in
this guide.) In order to buy a property wholesale you must have several
things working for you:
1. A motivated seller
2. The ability to close the deal now
3. Knowledge of current values
4. Networking to find the deals
For those more traditionally minded, networking is a very powerful and
effective tool. You can work through real estate agents, brokers,
friends, friends of friends, anyone who will listen to you. The more
people who know that you will buy properties, the more opportunities
that will gee to you.
If you successfully purchase a home at wholesale, ask them if they know
anyone else who is trying to or wants to sell a property. When you find
a good buyer, ask them if they know others in the market, or if they
know other properties for sale. Ask, ask, ask. The more you ask, the
more leads you will build, both buyers and sellers. This process is
crucial to your long-term success as an investor. There are many ways
to find the deals you want, but there is no such thing as a 'best' way.
If you focus only on one avenue of networking, you will be missing many
other opportunities. They key is to network wherever you are. Never
turn off your prospecting machine. Smart investors know they can always
wholesale good deals, even if they are currently out of the market.
Here are some other ideas to find buyers and sellers:
Real Estate Investor's Clubs While part of the meeting may be dedicated to
the speaker, the rest of it should be spent net-working. Get to know
others that share your interests. If they hear of a deal and are not
ready to move on it, they may let you know about it (be sure to return
the favor).
low - sell high strategy. It has a lot of names. Some people refer to
this as flipping
properties or "wholesaling and retailing. Another gemon term is the
"fixer-upper business or dealing in Junkers. It is a popular way to
invest because it is easy for people to understand and many have some
experience with their own homes, families, and friends.
The premise is simple in theory. Buy a property at a discounted,
distressed price (low), and then resell the property to an end user or
buyer for a greater price to make a profit. You can sell to another
investor (wholesale), or an owner occupant (retail) for more than you
paid. Just don't forget to include all of your costs, for example:
purchase costs, remodel/fix up expenses, interest, holding, resale
costs, etc. all factored in to determine your profit. If you sold it
for more, you make money and smile all the way to the bank. This
section will give you some of the essential tools necessary to make
money not only in this strategy, but in the others as well. Even if you
plan to focus on the other strategies, we regemend you read through
this guide to understand the principles of buying wholesale. I will
conclude with some real-life examples, both good and bad, so you can
better determine if this type of investment strategy is for you.
Depending on the condition of the property you purchase, it may or may
not need work to resell. There are several tracks that you can run on
with this strategy. The principles we discuss hold true for all types
of properties, single-family homes, condominiums, fourplexes, apartment
buildings, and even gemercial property. Finding the type of deals that
work for you, in your given situation, is critical. In other words, you
shouldn't plan on a major fixer-upper that needs a ton of work if you
need to turn it in 30 days to a retail home buyer, unless you know what
you are doing. I know many part-time investors who have made a ton of
money wholesaling and retailing just a few deals each year. I also know
of others that do 20 deals or more in a month. Neither option is
better. The direction you chose largely depends on your goals.
As we discuss some of the examples in this guide, you will notice that
they include lease options, seller financing, and selling paper. This
happens because as investors begee more familiar with the business,
they often gebine strategies to achieve the desired result. What
clearly starts out as a quick flip to another investor for an
assignment fee evolves into a lease-option. This happens because of the
moving variables involved in doing a deal. The buy/sell process is
somewhat fluid and staying open to options in a deal may greatly
enhance your profit potential. For this reason it is important to
realize that you are just beginning your education process in creative
real estate. If you do it right, you will always be learningas we are.
We also make mistakes. We simply move on, and in the end hope to win
more than lose. If you adopt a similar mindset, you
too will be open to more opportunities as they present
themselves. Lets talk about wholesaling and retailing in more
detail.
BUY WHOLESALE, OR DON'T BUY! There are two main aspects to real estate
wholesaling, price and speed. Since you make your money in real estate
when you buy, much of this section focuses on how to buy right. If you
buy right, you can choose your exit strategy, wholesale or retail. In
addition to the price, you really want the property sold as soon as you
buy it. The key to the whole process is to minimize your holding costs
and financing requirements. You do that by moving the property quickly,
hence the term 'flipping.' In buying properties wholesale, in most
markets, you should try to purchase at least 25-40 percent below retail
market value. This discount will vary greatly depending on if you are
in a sellers or a buyers market. Really hot, fast moving markets are
tough to get steep discounts. You can still find deals, but they move
quickly. If you make the right wholesale purchase, you should be able
to resale it immediately in a matter of days. Your objective in buying
property wholesale is to buy it at a steep discount and then quickly
turn it to another discount buyer at a wholesale price giving them room
to make some money. Typically you sell at 15-25 percent under retail,
more if the market is slow. You may earn a finders fee or
assignment fee of anywhere from a few thousand dollars to tens of
thousands, depending on the type of deal. (See the case study later in
this guide.) In order to buy a property wholesale you must have several
things working for you:
1. A motivated seller
2. The ability to close the deal now
3. Knowledge of current values
4. Networking to find the deals
For those more traditionally minded, networking is a very powerful and
effective tool. You can work through real estate agents, brokers,
friends, friends of friends, anyone who will listen to you. The more
people who know that you will buy properties, the more opportunities
that will gee to you.
If you successfully purchase a home at wholesale, ask them if they know
anyone else who is trying to or wants to sell a property. When you find
a good buyer, ask them if they know others in the market, or if they
know other properties for sale. Ask, ask, ask. The more you ask, the
more leads you will build, both buyers and sellers. This process is
crucial to your long-term success as an investor. There are many ways
to find the deals you want, but there is no such thing as a 'best' way.
If you focus only on one avenue of networking, you will be missing many
other opportunities. They key is to network wherever you are. Never
turn off your prospecting machine. Smart investors know they can always
wholesale good deals, even if they are currently out of the market.
Here are some other ideas to find buyers and sellers:
Real Estate Investor's Clubs While part of the meeting may be dedicated to
the speaker, the rest of it should be spent net-working. Get to know
others that share your interests. If they hear of a deal and are not
ready to move on it, they may let you know about it (be sure to return
the favor).
Hockey Tape Buyers Guide
I have been playing hockey at a high level for a little over 15 years and I know about hockey tape. Let's face it, there are many kinds of tape out there and sometimes it can be hard to choose. I will give you a description of each kind. After that, I'll give you some tips for taping. There are four main kinds of hockey tape...they consist of friction, white cloth, black cloth, and clear (poly).
WHY USE HOCKEY TAPE? because it protects the blade of your stick from moisture-which can weaken your blade. Besides protection, tape cushions your blade giving you a better feel of the puck.
WHITE AND BLACK CLOTH: These types of tape are made out of the same materials and only differ by color. White and Black are the most gemon type of tape used on the ice. This tape has a very good resistance to moisture. Which makes it ideal for use on the blade of your stick. White and black are also used at the butt of your stick for better grip. There is an ongoing debate on what tape is better to use on your blade. There are many reasons to use each. White tape allows you to better see the puck on our stick. Black tape blends in with puck giving the tape a disguise. ALL goalies use white tape on their blades. This is so they can see the puck when it's on their stick.
FRICTION: Friction is black tape that is sticky on both sides. Players who use friction tape are looking for a different feel of the puck. Also, friction tape resists moisture better than any other tape.
CLEAR (POLY): Clear tape is strickly used for taping legs or knee pads. Most players tape over there socks to get a tighter fit. Clear tape is ideal for taping your knee pads because of its ability to stretch. It also has extremely strong adhesives.
HOW TO TAPE A STICK: The majority of players start from the heel of their stick and tape to the toe, leaving about 2 inches between the tip of the blade and the tape.
TAPING THE BUTT-END: When applying tape to the butt-end of your stick, leave just enough tape to leave you with a good grip. Your upper-hand is the hand which controls your stickhandling-you need that hand to move freely. Having a big knob only makes things worse. GOALIES: Ignore what I just said! You NEED a big knob on your stick.
IMPORTANT!!!! when taping the the butt of your stick do not use friction-it will destroy your palm of your glove and leave it sticky.
any more questions? search "hockey tape" and look for e-hockeytape
WHY USE HOCKEY TAPE? because it protects the blade of your stick from moisture-which can weaken your blade. Besides protection, tape cushions your blade giving you a better feel of the puck.
WHITE AND BLACK CLOTH: These types of tape are made out of the same materials and only differ by color. White and Black are the most gemon type of tape used on the ice. This tape has a very good resistance to moisture. Which makes it ideal for use on the blade of your stick. White and black are also used at the butt of your stick for better grip. There is an ongoing debate on what tape is better to use on your blade. There are many reasons to use each. White tape allows you to better see the puck on our stick. Black tape blends in with puck giving the tape a disguise. ALL goalies use white tape on their blades. This is so they can see the puck when it's on their stick.
FRICTION: Friction is black tape that is sticky on both sides. Players who use friction tape are looking for a different feel of the puck. Also, friction tape resists moisture better than any other tape.
CLEAR (POLY): Clear tape is strickly used for taping legs or knee pads. Most players tape over there socks to get a tighter fit. Clear tape is ideal for taping your knee pads because of its ability to stretch. It also has extremely strong adhesives.
HOW TO TAPE A STICK: The majority of players start from the heel of their stick and tape to the toe, leaving about 2 inches between the tip of the blade and the tape.
TAPING THE BUTT-END: When applying tape to the butt-end of your stick, leave just enough tape to leave you with a good grip. Your upper-hand is the hand which controls your stickhandling-you need that hand to move freely. Having a big knob only makes things worse. GOALIES: Ignore what I just said! You NEED a big knob on your stick.
IMPORTANT!!!! when taping the the butt of your stick do not use friction-it will destroy your palm of your glove and leave it sticky.
any more questions? search "hockey tape" and look for e-hockeytape
Step #1 Finding Sellers (Building your seller list)
Finding Sellers:
Finding interested sellers is often the most daunting step of the
entire process (the first step usually is). It takes persistence and a
willingness to get out and talk to people. Since your ultimate goal is
to make money, you want to find the motivated sellers, the good deals,
the discounted opportunities. Some possible sources are:
Bank foreclosures
Bank REOs
Delinquent tax sales
Probate and estate sales
IRS sales
VA repossessions
FDIC sales
Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac
For Sale by Owner listings
Real Estate agents
Internet listings
Finding sellers through these sources can take a lot of leg work and a
willingness to talk to lots of people. If you have the time and are
interested in pursuing any of these avenues, start with your
local banks, county recorder offices, and real estate
professionals. Also, keep an eye on your local newspaper, both legal
notices and classifieds. As you begin networking with more people, you
will begin finding more opportunities. There are whole courses taught
on prospecting methods and strategies, check out my other guides that
talk about this in detail. However, the best way to really learn is to
jump in and get started. As you do, it takes time to build up your lead
sources, so be prepared to be patient and persistent.
Of all the lead sources consider this: What you are looking for is
motivation. Anything that denotes motivation makes the seller a better
potential investment. Most sellers don't carry a sign around their neck
that says motivated seller so you have to learn to be an investigator.
Find out the reasons why they are selling. Many people say they just
want to sell but that is seldom ever the case find out why.
Once you find out why put yourself in their shoes and think what do
they really need to acgeplish by selling their property? Once you get
down to what the seller really needs then that is the best way to
adress the offer.
Finding interested sellers is often the most daunting step of the
entire process (the first step usually is). It takes persistence and a
willingness to get out and talk to people. Since your ultimate goal is
to make money, you want to find the motivated sellers, the good deals,
the discounted opportunities. Some possible sources are:
Bank foreclosures
Bank REOs
Delinquent tax sales
Probate and estate sales
IRS sales
VA repossessions
FDIC sales
Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac
For Sale by Owner listings
Real Estate agents
Internet listings
Finding sellers through these sources can take a lot of leg work and a
willingness to talk to lots of people. If you have the time and are
interested in pursuing any of these avenues, start with your
local banks, county recorder offices, and real estate
professionals. Also, keep an eye on your local newspaper, both legal
notices and classifieds. As you begin networking with more people, you
will begin finding more opportunities. There are whole courses taught
on prospecting methods and strategies, check out my other guides that
talk about this in detail. However, the best way to really learn is to
jump in and get started. As you do, it takes time to build up your lead
sources, so be prepared to be patient and persistent.
Of all the lead sources consider this: What you are looking for is
motivation. Anything that denotes motivation makes the seller a better
potential investment. Most sellers don't carry a sign around their neck
that says motivated seller so you have to learn to be an investigator.
Find out the reasons why they are selling. Many people say they just
want to sell but that is seldom ever the case find out why.
Once you find out why put yourself in their shoes and think what do
they really need to acgeplish by selling their property? Once you get
down to what the seller really needs then that is the best way to
adress the offer.
Build A Perfect Tone - Playing The Saxophone
I have played the saxophone for more than 40 years. One gepliment that I have received consistently over the years is how true and perfect my "tone" has been. For that reason, I would like to pass on the following suggestions to those who are perfecting their craft.
First, it is all about resistance
1. Visualize the wind. I mean, project your breath flowing through the mouthpiece, through the neck, down the base, and out from the bell. When practicing, place an object directly in front of the horn. (the music sheet on the stand will work) Nowimagine the wind of your breath touching the object in front of you.
Warm up practice
2. Start your practice with repetitions of whole notes. Start with holdinglow Bb continuously for at least 2 or 3 measures at a time. Project each note to the object in front of you and imagine your breath actually touching the object. Repeat this process for each note (be sure to include the sharps and flats); proceeding all the way up the scale. Continue for about 30 minutes.
Add more resistance.
Place a rag into the bell of the saxophone and repeat the same process. You will notice that the lowest notes will not play but go through the procedure anyway.
Work your way up the scale as indicated above.
Now begin your normal practice.
Follow this process daily and email me after 3 months and let me know what you think. Watch the improvement in your tone.
Papasseafood
bellzipporah@yahoo.ge
First, it is all about resistance
1. Visualize the wind. I mean, project your breath flowing through the mouthpiece, through the neck, down the base, and out from the bell. When practicing, place an object directly in front of the horn. (the music sheet on the stand will work) Nowimagine the wind of your breath touching the object in front of you.
Warm up practice
2. Start your practice with repetitions of whole notes. Start with holdinglow Bb continuously for at least 2 or 3 measures at a time. Project each note to the object in front of you and imagine your breath actually touching the object. Repeat this process for each note (be sure to include the sharps and flats); proceeding all the way up the scale. Continue for about 30 minutes.
Add more resistance.
Place a rag into the bell of the saxophone and repeat the same process. You will notice that the lowest notes will not play but go through the procedure anyway.
Work your way up the scale as indicated above.
Now begin your normal practice.
Follow this process daily and email me after 3 months and let me know what you think. Watch the improvement in your tone.
Papasseafood
bellzipporah@yahoo.ge
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